Like every other house exposed to the elements, Log Homes are neither maintenance free, nor are they absolute killers to take care of. I don't think it would be an embellishment to state that the first merge of years examine significantly more work than your standard-issue house - unless, of course, you can afford to pay someone to do the work for you! Log establishment and the base coat of stain are vital to the long-term success of your wall protection. But once the initial work is done, the maintenance becomes routine, and I would investment to guess log homes are a petite easier to care for than other wood houses. After all, you don't have to strip the stain off between coats.
Log Preparation: Most construction sites become a sea of mud in a short period of time. The soil has been disturbed and there's no grass to hold the dirt together (or digest the rain). You'll recognize that the first few log courses are beyond doubt pristine, but the higher the walls become, the more the logs get dropped, smudged, or even used as stepping stones to dryer places (like the port-a-potty). Once the house is up, the logs will have to be washed before applying a stain... Both inside and out.
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Doing the interior cleaning in the right order didn't occur to us - especially since the logs were erected in the winter. In our case, the timing was all wrong; you beyond doubt want to wash the interior walls before the accomplished floor is laid, and before the basement insulation is installed under the floor decking. We didn't make it, and we had to corollary our wall-washing with a shop-vac to get rid of all the water... What a mess!
It was recommended that we use a composition of one part bleach and four parts trisodium phosphate. We scrubbed it on with a brush and rinsed it off. Some citizen propose a power washer for the surface walls, but you must use great care, and apply with a fan-tip to avoid damaging the logs. The experts propose corn cob-blasting, but this is an cost most of us can't afford. If you do use a power-washer, it's a good idea to corollary up with a shop-vac and vacuum out the water that will pool inside the checks, so that the logs don't get saturated from water sitting in the cracks. Even so, it will take one or more days to dry completely, depending on the weather.
Once the logs are dry, it is recommended that you apply a borate rehabilitation before applying the stain. This borate is not only an insecticide, it also protects against rot. usually this comes as a powder, and is mixed with water and sprayed on with an ordinary orchad sprayer. Make sure it doesn't rain between applying the borate and the stain, or the borate will probably wash out.
Staining: All stains are not created equal. There is a big execution inequity between the best and the worst, so make sure you don't try to save money by cutting corners on the stain - you'll pay for it later. A deck sealer just won't work for logs; you should use a stock specially designed for log homes, and you won't find it at your local hardware store. For a good brand, budget colse to 0 per 5-gal pail. Our 2400 sq. Foot house took about 5 pails initially. Most stains need to be applied in two or three coats, so make sure your painter knows this when going for a quote. You will want to stain the surface as soon as potential after the house is erected; it's remarkable how fast the logs will turn gray under general exposure.
Afterwards, a "maintenance coat" of stain needs to be applied every 2-5 years, depending on the exposure. You usually don't have to restain the whole house at one time. You'll see the color lighten up as the stain wears thin - for lack of a best word. If you're not sure whether a new coat is required, run a hose on the wall and see if the water beads up. If it does not, you're probably ready for other coat. And no, you don't have to strip off the old stain first, unless it has been neglected and shows sign of flaking and chipping. If your walls have gone 10 years without a second coat, you may have to corn-blast and start over. In this case, consult a specialist.
Railing System: The weak link of every log home is the railing law - especially on an exposed deck. The junctures between the rails and spindles need to be caulked thoroughly, and you'll see many more checks in the petite railings giving the opportunity to let rain in. The railing law needs to be restained every year. Make sure you don't let any water drip on the railings; gutters are a must.
Caulking: It is a personal preference whether or not you caulk the surface of your log home, but coarse sense would tell us that it's good course to lock out the elements. There are caulks specifically designed for log homes that remain supple and give with general expansion & contraction. The first merge of years, it is advised to caulk any checks that appear on the upper curve of the log surface, where rain might collect. These caulks will take a stain, so they tend to blend in. After the house has reached equilibrium with its environment, the checking will cease.
Insects: You can read more about insects in my article Log Homes vs. Insects: What to look for. For the most part, there is optic evidence of any insect problem. Make it a course to recognize your home in the spring and in the fall, and be sure to keep your walls free of foliage, dead leaves, etc. Bushes should be planted a minimum of 2 feet away from the walls. Don't stack firewood against the wall, or whatever else that could furnish a home for unwelcome critters, four-legged or six-legged ones.
Bottom Line: Maintenance on your log home should be routine, and the best defense is keeping a truthful eye on abnormalities. Discoloration of a angle probably means water is dripping on it. A petite pile of sawdust probably means a boring insect. Holes in the log, regardless of how tiny, are a red flag. These are the kinds of things you'd look for with any house. And after you've had your inspection, relax on the deck and enjoy your home... You deserve it.
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